Travel Articles > Las Vegas and Reno

A Tale of Two Cities

Dennis Goza - June 2002

Las Vegas and Reno. They sit at opposite poles of the same state, geographically and in just about every other sense. This spring we spent some time in both of these Nevada cities, as we do at least once a year, and as always we were impressed by their differences more than their similarities.

Most visitors to these towns don't really think about this, but they both have excellent library systems and, from what we can tell, good schools as well. We've performed for the Washoe County (Reno) Library System more than a dozen times -- they've been our most repeated of repeat clients -- but only at 4 of the area schools. We've performed at over a dozen Las Vegas schools, but so far at none of the Clark County Libraries (they invited us this summer, but we had prior commitments.) Both also seem to have good public transit systems; I suppose it makes sense that public services are so adequate because of the revenue derived, in both municipalities, from games of chance, the foundation of both economies almost from the beginning (Reno first, and Las Vegas shortly thereafter). And like just about any resort destination, both locations teem with cultural and entertainment activity, ranging from flamboyant comedy revues to opera and ballet to major art exhibits. Both seem in recent years to have inherited much of the smog that Los Angeles has been forfeiting. But contrary to the stereotypes associated with gambling communities, both apparently have lower than average crime rates.

But that's about as far as the similarities extend. Reno, which straddles the Truckee River at the base of the magnificent Sierra Nevada Mountains, is, as the arch in the heart of downtown proudly proclaims, "The Biggest Little City in the World", with a population of only about 180,000 (plus another 66,000 in adjacent Sparks). You can stroll all the way across town in half a day. But Las Vegas, which sprawls almost to infinity in the desert, is just plain big, no matter how you measure it. The last I heard, about a million souls were living there and in the surrounding communities, and thousands more were joining them every year. But the tourists probably outnumber the residents on most days. And walking 3 or 4 of the huge blocks making up Las Vegas Boulevard (" The Strip" ) can leave you drained -- especially in the summer when the temperature hovers near 120.

We first visited Las Vegas just about 10 years ago, when the Excalibur was still new, and fairly isolated on the south end of The Strip. Allegedly the world's largest castle, it loomed imposingly on the skyline back in those days; but now it's been surrounded by The Luxor (a huge Egyptian-style pyramid that reportedly shoots a laser beam all the way to the moon), the MGM Grand (Sorry, but I liked the original lion's head over the entrance better than the new one) and New York, New York which really has the look and feel of The Big Apple. (Through some masochistic impulse, we attended opening day at the latter, which happened to fall on a New Year's Day to boot. We stayed inside for just about a New York minute.) On our most recent visit, the sidewalks outside New York, New York were lined with shirts from fire departments around the country, sent in tribute to New York City's fallen heroes. Every time we return to town, we find that at least one new landmark has shot up in our absence, each trying to outdo the last in size, uniqueness, elegance, gaudiness and/or inventiveness.

There's been talk in the last couple of years of reemphasizing Sin City's role as an adult playground, and downplaying its many activities available for children. But I haven't really seen much evidence of this. Zephyr's current passion is rollercoasters and amusement parks, and there's a theme park included in the MGM complex; unfortunately it was still closed for the season during our latest visit. Instead he went to the indoor amusement park at Circus Circus for some moderate thrill rides at moderate prices. Several new rollercoasters have been erected on The Strip recently as part of hotel/casino properties. They include a decent one at The Sahara, and a really high and terrifying one at New York, New York. Or if you're REALLY a daredevil, you can ride a coaster 1100 feet above The Strip, at the top of the Stratosphere's tower -- which also features another ride that shoots you straight up into the air and drops you. This tower, by the way, also provides the highest view of the city, at 7 dollars a pop. But the last time I checked, you could obtain a view nearly as good for free by taking the elevator to the top of The Rio. But I can guarantee that it won't remain free forever.

The Rio also offers a free Mardi Gras-style "Masquerade" show, with floats full of costumed musicians suspended from the ceiling, and a dance revue on the stage below. For free shows, though, it's still hard to beat Treasure Island, which presents a staged battle between a pirate ship and a British Navy vessel in the moat right on The Strip. With trick diving, pyrotechnics and a ship that actually sinks into the water, this spectacle has delighted us several times -- one of which was the 3000th performance. The first time we took Zephyr, he was very young and was rather startled by the cannon fire and the heat and flames of the explosions. (He nonetheless had no reservations about seeing it again!) The show draws quite a crowd, so it's important to stake out a good viewing spot at least 15 minutes in advance. And if you have very small children, you might want to stake out a spot that's a little removed from the intensity of the action. For more low-key free entertainment, we like to relax in front of the small stage in The Excalibur featuring an all-day roster of acts (jugglers, magicians, musicians, contortionists, etc.) ranging from amateurish to dazzling.

When Zephyr was smaller, we also enjoyed taking him to The Emerald Forest in The MGM -- -in those days, the entire lobby was decked in a Wizard of Oz motif, and a magic show was presented there several times throughout the day. (I hear that Liza Minnelli once strolled through here with her young daughter who, seeing a special display with Dorothy sitting in a car to be given away, asked, "What's Grandma doing in that Chevy?" ) Alas, that feature has been ripped out; but it's been replaced by a lion habitat, which is fascinating in its own way. You can walk right under one of the beasts lounging on an overhead glass walkway; and if you're feeling really bold, you can have your picture taken right next to one.

One of our favorite Las Vegas attractions is actually outside the city, in nearby Henderson. It's the Ethel M Chocolate Factory, offering free tours with chocolate samples at the end. Like the Hershey tour in Oakdale, Ca. (but unlike the one in Hershey, Pa.) you actually get to observe workers manufacturing confections. Also on the property is a 4-acre cactus garden, the largest in the country, and a facility called The Living Machine, at which you can observe water being recycled through waste-consuming ecologies in tanks, marshes and reed beds. Whoever would have thought you could find such interesting science lessons at a candy factory? (NOTE: Ethel Mars was the wife of Forrest Mars -- yes, like the bar, and also one of the M's in M & M's -- who worked for Milton Hershey before starting his own company in 1911.)

While it isn't exactly free (in fact it's decidedly outrageous at $24.99 a head) we also highly recommend Star Trek: The Experience at the Reno Hilton for anyone who's a fan of Star Trek -- as is just about every kid and former kid in the galaxy. After viewing a display of artifacts from various Star Trek films and TV series, you are able to actually "beam aboard" The Enterprise (an impressively done special effect) with a costumed crew as they face yet another moment of crisis that just happens to be resolved within a convenient time slot. It's over all too soon, but it's well worth the visit and, for my money, even worth the money. And rest assured, commercialism is still alive and well in the 24th Century; the Star Trek Experience is surrounded by meticulously themed space-age gift shops, Quark's Bar and Restaurant, and even (surprise!) a futuristic casino.

Reno also is growing in population, but much more slowly. And whereas Las Vegas is adding new attractions all the time, Reno seems to be losing them. Harold's Club, The Comstock, The Pioneer and Eddie's all have closed their doors since the first time we came to town.

And while the fabulous Mapes Hotel was shuttered over 20 years ago, it still stood vacant until January of 2000, when it was imploded as part of a tawdry half-time spectacle of a televised football game. Once again, a community has learned the hard way that while you can build all the new buildings you want, you can never never never never never build an old one. Especially a monumental old one like The Mapes. I always relished just taking in the visual spectacle of its antiquated art deco design, and now this classic venue that was frequented by Red Skelton and other big names is nothing but a memory. (You can catch a glimpse of The Mapes in its glory days in Robert Altman's 1974 film "California Split".)

There have also been a few new additions to Reno's skyline, including a new bowling stadium that purports to be the nation's largest. The Silver Legacy and The Atlantis have contributed elegance, but nothing near the glitz you'll find in Reno's southern sister. Nor does it appear that too much glitz ever will find its way up north. Not long ago, actor Max Baer, Jr. made a very sincere pitch to the city to erect a hotel/casino themed after "The Beverly Hillbillies" (on which he portrayed Jethro), complete with a spouting oil derrick. From what I gather, the project was rejected. North is North and South is South, and never the twain shall meet.

We have some very fond memories of Reno, having been performing there regularly since our first year in business. Kimberly and I also spent our honeymoon there, and at nearby Lake Tahoe. And for the past 5 years, her parents have lived there.

At first glance, it seems there is far less for visiting youngsters to do in Reno than in Vegas. In terms of continuously available free family activity, there isn't much outside of the circus acts at Circus Circus; and unlike the Circus Circus in Las Vegas, there are no comfortable seats for watching the performances -- -you just have to crowd against the rail.

But Reno seems to provide a rather stronger sense of community -- -a place to live instead of just to vacation. During the warm months, there are festivals by the river, a hot air balloon festival, and Hot August Nights with a cavalcade of vintage automobiles in celebration of The Fifties A short drive will take you to the living ghost town of Virginia City, where Mark Twain cut his teeth in journalism (the newspaper office where he worked has been preserved as a museum, complete with an old toilet seat and a sign saying "Mark Twain sat here" ). Every September, Virginia City hosts camel (and ostrich) races. How often do you get to see THAT?

Lake Tahoe is truly one of the most beautiful spots on earth, with fine hiking and biking trails, swimming and boating in the summer, and outstanding skiing in the winter. (The Olympics were staged here in the Sixties.) And you also still can tour The Ponderosa Ranch, where many episodes of TV's "Bonanza" were filmed.

It surprised me to hear that more writers per capita live in Reno than in any other city in the Western United States. But it really shouldn't have; the city does have that kind of ambiance. Among other things, the University of Nevada is located here (featuring a rather accessible astronomical observatory) and, like just about everything else, it's only a short walk from downtown. Oh yes, and Reno experiences real seasons, including subzero temperatures and significant snowfall.

During our last tour of Reno, Kimberly was stricken with a severe illness and when I took her to the doctor, only a few blocks from where we were staying, I found myself feeling grateful for the community's compactness. We had 6 performances scheduled for that week, and Zephyr and I had to do the first 4 without her, making some drastic changes on very short notice. It was the first time in our 14 years in business that one of us has had to miss a show because of illness. But these performances were well received by the audience -- -some folks commented that they never would have known that someone was missing -- -and a school we performed at has already invited us back next year. I guess we must have done SOMETHING right!

For better, and now for worse, Reno seldom has failed to deliver a memorable experience!